The Spanish hidden gem that’s steeped in gastronomic & cultural riches that has strong links to Hollywood blockbuster

SUN, sea and sand – what’s not to like about a trip to Spain?

But there is so much more to the country than the islands, the Costas and its famed coastline.

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Getty Images – Getty

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Forsaking the well-trodden routes by the sea and beaten tracks so popular with Irish visitors, there is a land of gastronomic and cultural riches when travelling inland – in short, the type of places the Spaniards routinely visit when THEY need a holiday.

And the Extremadura region, situated in the central-western part of the Iberian Peninsula and snuggling up to the Portuguese border, is exactly that kind of place.

It’s a region drenched in excellent wines and offers a surprisingly Roman cultural experience (more of that anon) and on our trip we followed what’s known as the Ribera del Guadiana wine route deep into the province of Badajoz.

The area’s gastronomy is superb and unique, and a huge player in many local dishes is, of course, Iberian ham – and it’s safe to say we gorged on this delicacy while there.

This succulent, thinly sliced (if done correctly) meat is everywhere you look — hanging on hooks in corner shops and proudly on display in restaurants. Vegetarians may have to avert their gaze.

When I say it’s everywhere, I mean it’s EVERWHERE. Want lunch? Try some ham. Dinner ideas? Hmm.. how about some ham?

But I wasn’t complaining, as it really is one of the most delicious ingredients I have ever tried – and you soon realise that, for the most part, what’s on offer to us in Irish supermarkets really is a far inferior product.

I loved it so much I stuffed my suitcase with vacuum-sealed packets to bring home. Yes, I made a pig of myself.

Now for that “Roman” connection in the deepest heart of rural Spain. Yes, of course Italy is synonymous with all things Roman Empire (for blindingly obvious reasons), but in Ridley Scott’s epic movie Gladiator you may recall the main protagonist’s name was Maximus Decimus Meridius – often referred to as “The Spaniard”? And the provenance of Russell Crowe’s character’s name? Well, “Meridius” is derived from Merida, the capital of the region, and this beautiful city is liberally draped in Roman influence everywhere you look – perhaps even more so than Rome itself, if that’s possible.

This pretty city’s history is truly fascinating, and could be the basis of some Hollywood “sword and sandals” epic all by itself.

A vital part of the Roman Empire as capital of Hispania, as it was then known, it was at various times raided and ruled by rampaging tribes such as the Vandals, Moors and Visigoths – and this melting pot of cultures is evident in the architecture, much of which still stands almost completely intact. Almost.

How about this for a Roman roll call? Merida has the longest Roman bridge still in existence, the vast Puente Romano, its very own Circus Maximus, the eye-wateringly beautiful Roman Theatre, Trajan’s Arch and The Forum – which includes the Temple of Diana and a gladiatorial arena that would make Messrs Mescal and Crowe proud. Were we not entertained? We most certainly were – and considerably more informed after our visit, too. A superb and surprising discovery so deep into rural Spain.

GREAT GRAPES

As you drive down the roads leading to Merida through the parched, arid landscape and past farms that are measured in the thousands, not hundreds, of acres you can spot countless vineyards, illustrating the fact that the barren soils that stretch endlessly in every direction are the perfect spot for nurturing certain varieties of grape.

Reds, whites, rosés and cavas; the “complex and robust” to the easy sippers; whatever your bag, the region seems to excel at it.

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Journalist Collect

Vineyard tours are an ever-popular tourist attraction, and a visit to the uber-trendy Habla in Trujillo for some sampling won’t disappoint. It’s so modern and hip you almost expect a supermodel in a pair of high-heel Manolos and carrying a Prada bag to serve you up your glasses, and the vino is delightfully more-ish.

Or you can opt for the more “cottage industry” type set-up at La Hermandad de Villalba – a “rural house” which prides itself on ecological wines – or Palacio Quemado, where we sipped on local blends while enjoying a tractor ride through the vast vineyard.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

A highlight was a visit to Arizar Selecto, a vast family-run estate where we enjoyed a remarkable sunset in a bullring, sipping chilled cava and experiencing a masterclass in Iberian ham carving – after a 4×4 ride through their very own bull farm.

The quizzical looks shot in our direction from the many free-range “el toros” lazing about in the shade of the oak trees never developed into a full-on charge, thankfully.

We later found out the pick-up truck we travelled in normally brings them their food supplies – so we were in their good books.

Getty – Contributor

Getty Images – Getty

Whatever your views are on bull fighting, it is an integral part of the culture here and a visit to the bullring in Almendralejo is and recommended (and it’s the only bullring in the world with its own wine cellar).

We stayed in Hotel Monasterio Rocamador, a converted monastery just outside Merida featuring a hill-top infinity pool with stunning views and a remarkable restaurant which even houses a centuries-old confession box. Obviously, I had no need to make a visit.

The region is a superb option for a “guaranteed sunshine” break in spring or autumn, but the height of the summer may prove to be a bit challenging due to the intense heat.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

I can’t recommend a visit to Extremadura highly enough, and you could easily spend a week filling your days with visits to wineries, museums and an endless array of attractions to feed your mind, body and soul.

Then perhaps repair to one of the many cosy restaurants dotted around Merida’s maze-like winding streets – and enjoy yet another meal involving copious amounts of local vino and, obviously, that ubiquitous Iberian ham.

Well, when in Merida do as the Meridans do, I always say.

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