WHAT’S the first thing you think of when you think of a family trip to Finland?
Snow and Santa, right? Well, let me change your mind.
I took my family of four to the gorgeous capital of Finland, Helsinki, and couldn’t recommend it highly enough as a family-friendly destination.
Forget Santa and festivities and snowball fights, this trip was all about saunas and foraging and outdoor swimming for myself, my husband James and our daughters Lily, 7, and Rosie, 4.
The city might not be the first place you think of for a family break, but it has it all.
From gorgeous nature parks and sea views to daily saunas and delicious fare, you begin to see why the Finns are so happy.
Flying from Dublin takes around three hours and the airport is about 30 minutes from the city centre. You can get a taxi at the airport for a fixed rate or a train directly there.
We stayed at Hotel Scandic Park Helsinki, where room rates start from €204 per night, in a family room with pull out couch for the girls.
The hotel was family-friendly with a playroom right by the restaurant, perfect for the kids to jump around in while James and I enjoyed a leisurely dinner or breakfast.
They loved it and made firm friends during the week there. It really should be a must for every hotel.
CULTURE VULTURE
On the first day we met with our guide Karin, who couldn’t have been warmer or more informative, and off we trotted to the impressive Helsinki Central Library Oodi, a modern architectural marvel designed by Finnish firm ALA Architects.
More than just a library, Oodi offers visitors a wealth of knowledge, creative resources, and a space to engage with the city’s diverse urban life.
And for the girls there are several playgrounds around the library which is also close to the picturesque Töölö Lake.
BACK TO NATURE
Another highlight of the trip was a Foraging Walk on Seurasaari Island.
Guided by Anna Nyman – a biologist, forager and herbalist- she unveiled to us a world of wild edible plants and herbs.
We nibbled on heart’s ease pansies, ground elder, wood sorrel, and even the kids munched on some flora. Rosie particularly liked the flowers of the blueberry plant.
The island itself is a tranquil retreat, popular with walkers, sunbathers, and outdoors enthusiasts and there we got to feed some local wildlife too before snacking on a gorgeous picnic provided by Anna in the sunshine. Highly recommended.
THRILLS AND SPILLS
Then, in contrast to the relaxing morning spent being at one with nature, we set off to do something a bit more high-octane.
Linnanmaki Amusement Park is Finland’s oldest and most popular amusement park, located in the Alppila district of Helsinki and it’s celebrating its 75th anniversary this year.
The park features over 40 rides, a wide variety of games, and numerous restaurants and cafés.
The girls are still too young, and short, to go on some of the park’s wildest spins and most exciting rides like Swingi – which swings visitors from side to side at nearly 100 kilometres per hour, or the rollercoaster Taiga – that throws you upside down four times per ride with a top speed of 106 km/h.
But we did go on some more of the sedate rides and the girls enjoyed being budding truck drivers on Rekkaralli, and spinning around on Propelli amongst loads of other fun attractions.
I SEE THE SEA
While in Helsinki we also took the ferry across to Suomenlinna, the historic Sea Fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site, steeped in maritime history and charm.
We met our very informative guide Kasper at the pier and he talked us all around the island, while the girls loved exploring.
The entire area of Suomenlinna has about 200 buildings from different eras spread over 80 hectares of land.
The fortress alone has about 6km of walls and over a hundred cannons remaining.
It is a must when you visit Helsinki. You can enjoy Suomenlinna with just the price of a ferry or water bus ticket, as there is no entrance fee to the fortress.
One of the main routes runs through the fortress from north to south.
The Blue Route starts at the main pier in front of the pink Jetty Barracks and the Visitor Center and ends at the King’s Gate. It’s about 1.5km long and marked with blue signs on signposts and a blue line on maps.
Along the route, you’ll find information boards in the Russian Merchant Quarter, by the Church Park, in the Great Courtyard, at the Dry Dock viewing platform, in Piper’s Park, and at Kustaanmiekka, the southernmost part of the fortress.
And there are plenty of museums, cafés and restaurants along this route too.
SWEAT IT OUT
Capping off our cultural adventure we immersed ourselves in Finnish wellness traditions with a sauna and swim at Allas Pool, a popular waterfront spa with stunning views – tickets available for €18.
So good we went twice in the five days we spent in Helsinki, Allas Pool is a marine spa and an oasis of urban culture right at the heart of the city.
It’s open all year round and offers new ways of enjoying the Baltic Sea, just a stone’s throw away from the Market Square and other main attractions.
It has three saunas, two warm water pools and one sea water pool, to which the water is pumped from nearby streams and filtered clean.
One of the pools is perfect for kids, with tummy height water for them and floaties and pool noodles are available from the lifeguards.
In addition to these, an outdoor gym, restaurant & café services, guided wellness & sports lessons and culture events are on offer.
We spent hours there on both visits and had dinner and cocktails in the Seagrill beach house restaurant on the second floor one evening.
The beach house noodles were delicious and chock full of fresh, crunchy veggies and the girls devoured a watermelon, pineapple, grapes and strawberry fresh fruit platter.
Speaking of saunas, they’re really a must for visitors to Finland.
Finland actually has more saunas than cars — roughly one sauna for every 1.67 people.
But the real question is – is everyone nude? And the answer is – kinda. It actually depends on where you go.
Check the dress code and remember wearing a towel is always ok.
Just one minute in cold water after the sauna boosts your happy hormones.
When you alternate the heat of the sauna with a 30–60 second dip in the sea, lake, or cold shower, your body responds with a rush of feel-good hormones.
And I was so surprised when Lily and Rosie loved the sauna at Allas pool.
The two mini pros popped in and out several times relaxing in the heat until their cheeks went pink, then they were back in the pool for another bit until they fancied another session.
SAUNA TIPS FOR NEWBIES
Don’t sweat it
- There are no strict rules — but how you feel is a good guide.
- All are welcome: kids, elders, locals, visitors.
- Check if there is a dress code in the sauna you’re entering – in public mixed saunas you often wear a swimsuit, meanwhile in a swimming pool you usually don’t. Wearing a towel is always ok.
- Hydration is key. Drink water, and sit on whichever bench level feels right for you.
- There are no rules on how long you should be inside the sauna. Head out to cool off when you feel hot.
- The felt hat some people wear? It helps regulate body temperature.
- Ask a local. Most are happy to share their approach.
DELICIOUS FARE
Right across from the pool is the funky restaurant Toppa. Toppa is on the top floor of the historic and outstanding ‘Sugar Cube’ building
designed by Alvar Aalto.
Food here is meant to be shared and we feasted on Bo ssam, a fresh and crunchy Korean classic made for sharing.
The centrepiece of Bo ssam is succulent pork, marinated and slow-roasted to melt-in-the-mouth perfection that you add to a wrap of crisp green lettuce along with some kimchi, spiced tomatoes, pickled carrots and cucumber.
We also munched on Chorizo Pan, Piri Piri Pulpo and the kids enjoyed the corndog consisting of battered sausage with honey mustard and Korean ketchup. The cocktails were also delicious.
WHERE TO STAY & HOW TO GET THERE
Come to happy Helsinki
Fiona was a guest of Visit Finland (www.visitfinland.com) and Helsinki Partners (www.myhelsinki.fi).
Where to Stay:
Stay at the Hotel Scandic Park Helsinki, where room rates start from €204 / £172 per night. There’s a good kids’ menu in the dining room, and a playroom.
What to do:
Visit: Helsinki Central Library Oodi, a modern architectural marvel designed by Finnish firm ALA Architects.
Venture into nature with a Foraging Walk on Seurasaari Island.
Enjoy the thrills and spills of Linnanmaki Amusement Park.
Take the ferry across to Suomenlinna, the historic Sea Fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site, stepped in maritime history and charm.
Sauna and swim at Allas Pool, a popular waterfront spa with stunning views – tickets available for €18.
How to Get There:
This year Finnair is celebrating a decade of direct flights between Dublin and Helsinki. Finnair (www.finnair.com) flies from Dublin to Helsinki up to ten times a week, year-round. A return flight from Dublin to Helsinki, starts from €170 Economy Class and €567 in Business Class. Fares include all taxes and charges.
For more details and to book, visit www.finnair.com or call 0330 8081188.
STAY ACTIVE
And it’s so easy to be active in Helsinki. The city has 34 public beaches, 21 winter swimming locations, 13 ice rinks, 16 indoor swimming pools and outdoor pools, 812 indoor sports facilities, and 92 dog parks.
Phew. It also has an extensive 1,300 km network of cycling paths, meaning there is literally something for everyone.
Children were warmly welcomed wherever we went and Finnish people are warm and friendly.
In all, the trip was a massive success and a wonderful family adventure.
It was our second visit to Helsinki, where James and I got engaged 10 years ago, and we’ll definitely return – hopefully we won’t wait another decade to experience it all.
