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I visited the tiny European island loved by Beyonce and Cristiano Ronaldo that has 300 days of sunshine a year


“JEFF Bezos was in this restaurant yesterday,” the waitress tells me. 

I’d spotted the Amazon owner’s unmissable $500million yacht just off the coast, here on the Croatian island of Hvar, earlier that day. 

Aerial view of Hvar town harbor at dusk.
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The harbour town of Hvar, with the Pakleni Islands just a boat ride away[/caption]

Tourists in Hvar, Croatia's main square, in front of St. Stephen's Roman Catholic Cathedral.
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Hvar Square, with the historic Saint Steven’s Cathederal[/caption]

Wooden sailboat docked in Hvar, Croatia, near buildings and other boats.
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Grand buildings line Hvar’s waterfront[/caption]

Having just tucked into the fresh catch of the day, straight from the Adriatic Sea, I can see why Bezos chose to dine here. 

The family-run Kod Barba Luke, in the quaint harbour town of Stari Grad, has been dishing up traditional Croatian grub since 1970, all of which is cooked in home-produced olive oil and washed down with local wine from UNESCO-listed vineyards. 

Good choice, Jeff. 

He’s not the only A-lister to have been spotted in these parts, either. This island — well over 500 times smaller than Britain — is actually something of a celebrity hotspot. 

Beyonce revealed her baby bump here and Tom Cruise is a fan. Cristiano Ronaldo even had a street shut down so he could visit his favourite jewellery shop, away from fans. 

Many of the island’s 10,000-odd residents would prefer their homeland wasn’t such a star attraction, though.

So much so, the local government recently launched a crackdown on the party tourism that the island has become famous for.

They well know that this haven has so much more to offer than late-night discos and affordable booze. 

And I completely agree with them. It’s a jaw-droppingly beautiful cultural crossroads; a rich Mediterranean melting pot of Neolithic, Greek, Venetian and Renaissance history. 

And the sun has its hat on for more than 300 days of the year, making it one of the sunniest places in Europe. 


Local tour guide Ivana takes me away from the glamour of Hvar town’s bustling harbour at the foot of a picturesque hilltop medieval fortress, to uncover something more peaceful and utterly beguiling. 

I meander through labyrinthine stone streets to find charming boutiques, cafes and restaurants behind fairytale-like limestone facades. 

Ivana reveals that Hvar has no less than six assets assigned Unesco World Heritage status, including the vast Stari Grad Plain. 

A short drive into its heart, past vineyards flanked by dry-stone walls, takes me to the Lacman Family Winery. 

I dine on local dishes including rooster, and taste all-natural white, rose, red and even orange wines. 

Beyonce revealed her baby bump here and Tom Cruise is a fan. Cristiano Ronaldo even had a street shut down so he could visit his favourite jewellery shop, away from fans

All are blended with Bogdanusa — the indigenous grape variety which translates as “God-given” and grows nowhere else in the world. 

The view from the winery’s clifftop pergola reveals exactly why Jeff arrived by yacht.

I gaze across rolling hills of pine trees, olive groves and lavender fields towards the midday sun reflecting on the azure horizon. 

Your budget may not stretch to a superyacht, but a day on the Adriatic — at a minimum — is a must. 

Just minutes from Hvar town port are the famous Pakleni islands — and day excursions can be booked via Valamar’s  Experience Concierge  (a four-hour sunset tour costs from €80 and a six-hour day tour costs from €100, see valamar-experience.com).

I board a small sailing boat to swim in lost lagoons and find concealed coves full of crystal-clear sea. 

After seeing this, it’s no surprise to me that Croatia officially has the cleanest swimming water in Europe

My hotel is Places Hvar by Valamar, which sits towards the western side of the island, right on the coast. 

Holiday like Jeff 

After a two-and-a-half-hour flight from the UK, you will need to pick up a short transfer to a ferry, for a two-hour crossing, or a catamaran for a one-hour crossing, and then a brief taxi ride on Hvar — but the hotel can help organise all of that. 

It is a modern, vibrant and small, but perfectly formed, beachside resort in Stari Grad. 

Stroll through the sun-dappled pine grove lining the waterfront and you will find a little spa, outdoor gym area and hot tubs, plus another cocktail bar on the beach

I’m staying on a half-board basis in a beach-chic room for two, which is funky and fresh, with a TV, ensuite bathroom and balcony.

Although there are luxurious detached villas with private pools  for bigger groups or those with children. 

If you do have kids, you may prefer the adjacent four-star Valamar Amicor Resort, with its outstanding children’s facilities and waterpark.

Places, on the other hand, has a more grown-up vibe, with a beautifully free-flowing layout, a main restaurant and bar that opens on to two sun-drenched pools and an outdoor cocktail bar, where a DJ drops some gentle beats during the day. 

Stroll through the sun-dappled pine grove lining the waterfront and you will find a little spa, outdoor gym area and hot tubs, plus another cocktail bar on the beach. 

A relaxing evening drink delivers a chaser in the sky made up of vivid orange, purple and pink as the sun sinks beyond the sea. 

You can charge the exquisite range of creative cocktails, made with local herbs, to your room with a waterproof wristband, which is also your door key. 

Hotel pool and building at sunset.
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Places Hvar by Valamar, which sits towards the western side of the island, right on the coast[/caption]

Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sanchez at a gala.
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Jeff Bezo and Lauren Sanchez who are big fans of Croatia[/caption]

Brilliantly, it comes pre-loaded with a complimentary €25 euros for each day of your stay. The evenings are chilled — a band plays acoustic music while couples enjoy board games and cards. 

And mine and Jeff’s new favourite restaurant is just a ten-minute stroll around the harbour. What could be better? 

With cheap flights and double rooms from just £123, my getaway was proof that you don’t need to be an internet billionaire to holiday like one. 

GO: HVAR

GETTING THERE: Wizz Air flies from Luton to Split from £48.28 return. See wizzair.com.

Transfers from the ferry port to the hotel cost €7.50pp, booked through the hotel.

Return ferry/boat transfers cost around £45pp (see directferries.com). 

STAYING THERE: Double rooms at Places Hvar by Valamar start from £123. Flexi half-board  includes a buffet breakfast and €25 daily credit per person for lunch or dinner.  

Villas at Valamar Amicor Resort start from £285 for half-board. See valamar.com/en/hotels-hvar or find @valamarhotels on social media. 

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